The most wonderful season has finally returned- Fall! Which means our leaves are starting to do just that!  Instead of  bagging your leaves and tossing them in the trash, simply leave them!

"Leaving the leaves and other plant debris doesn’t have to mean sacrificing your yard to the wilderness. The leaves don’t need to be left exactly where they fall. You can rake them into garden beds, around tree bases, or into other designated areas. Too many leaves can kill grass, but in soil they can suppress weeds, retain moisture, and boost nutrition." Xerces Society

Avoid shredding leaves with a mower. Raking or blowing (electric) are alternatives that will keep leaves whole for the best cover and protect the insects and eggs already living there.
If you decide you need to mow and mulch the leaves to clean up the debris in spring, make sure you wait until late in the season so as not to destroy all the life you’ve worked to protect. 
Then when you do, you will see the benefits of leaf mulch, like:

• Fertilize your lawn.
• Improve soil quality.
• Suppress weeds.
• Prevent topsoil erosion.
• Provide habitat and food to micro-organisms, pollinators, and other small critters.

 
Let’s say you’ve mulched as many leaves as you could into the lawn, but you still have more… now what? Use your leaves (shredded or whole) as an ingredient in your compost pile! Composting is a simple way to recycle household/kitchen/yard waste into a nutrient-rich and biologically stable soil amendment. The four main ingredients to a compost pile are: carbon-rich materials (i.e. your leaves), nitrogen-rich materials (like grass clippings, coffee grounds, tea bags, and fruit/veg scraps), water, and air. The goal is to maintain a 30:1 ratio of Carbon and Nitrogen. In other words, you’ll need a lot of leaves to mix in with your household scraps.

​Fall is a great time with great weather to be had, and we like to spend our precious time enjoying it. So when your yard is full of leaves and you think of reaching for the rake, leave it be! 

Additional Resources
 
USDA- Leave the Leaves
PennState Extension- Composting Leaves Guide

As the common name suggests, Asian jumping worms (Amynthas spp.) seem to jump or thrash when handled. Little kids and worm lovers might be excited by a find like this in their lawn, garden or woodlot but finding this worm is not beneficial for the native environment.

Why Jumping Worms Are A Problem
Most worms that you find in the Midwest are European and Asian non-natives. Both of these non-native types alter the native environment, although Asian jumping worms do it at a more alarming rate.  Jumping worms grow twice as fast, reproduce more quickly, and can work through organic debris much quicker than other worms. These invasive worms can severely damage the roots of plants in nurseries, gardens, forests, and turf. In areas of heavy infestation, native plants, microorganisms and animals such as salamanders may decline.

Asian jumping worms are an annual species; the adults die after the first freeze. But the cocoons, which are about the size of a mustard seed and resemble small pieces of dirt, will survive the winter and hatch when temperatures reach 50°F for a consistent period. These self-fertilizing worms do not need mates and can produce cocoons on their own. Because populations can grow faster than the common European species, they may out-compete existing worm populations. Cocoons can be spread easily in potted plants, on landscaping equipment, mulch, tire treads, and even hiking boots.
One telltale sign of an infestation is a very uniform, granular soil created from worm castings that are commonly said to look like coffee grounds. When you scratch the top layer of soil you will see the worms thrashing about with an erratic, snakelike movement. These worms, which can reach 6 inches in length, are much more active than European nightcrawlers. The Asian jumping worm can be found on the soil surface and in the leaf litter, making them easy to find. They can live anywhere from urban parks and suburban backyards to rural forests. You are also very likely to find them in compost piles and along roads.

Earthworm species have a body part called the clitellum where egg cocoons are produced. The Asian jumping worm has a prominent clitellum that completely encircles the body, is milky white to light gray, and is flush with the body; the body looks metallic. On European nightcrawlers, the clitellum is raised or saddle-shaped and reddish-brown in color and does not wrap entirely around the body.

Management
There is no magic control for these worms once they are found in soil. Asian jumping worms can now be found in the East, Mid-Atlantic, Midwest, and some Northwestern states. Prevention is the best way to keep them from being introduced to new areas. According to Wisconsin Department of Natural Resources, the following steps will reduce the spread of jumping worms:

• Educate yourself and others to recognize jumping worms
• Watch for jumping worms and signs of their presence
• Arrive clean, leave clean. Clean soil and debris from vehicles, equipment and personal gear before moving to and from a work or recreational area – they might contain jumping worms or their cocoons
• Use, sell, plant, purchase or trade only landscape and gardening materials and plants that appear to be free of jumping worms
• Sell, purchase or trade only compost and mulch that was heated to appropriate temperatures and duration following protocols that reduce pathogens.

According to Ohio State University Extension, much is unknown about the long-term effects of these worms, with research currently underway regarding control strategies in different environments.  Inorder to understand and track the presence of these worms OSU has developed a reporting site where Ohio gardeners can document locations of suspected populations. Gardeners should visit [ https://go.osu.edu/asianjumpingworms ] to report suspected locations and upload photographs.
​
Until effective research-based control strategies are developed to keep populations of this worm in check, gardeners should closely examine soil, compost, wood chips, and other soil amendments they move on or off their property. Learn how to identify these worms and educate your gardening friends and neighbors so they too can identify these worms.  If you do find these worms on your property, never share plants or soil with other gardeners.

For more questions regarding Warren County Soil and Water Conservation District programs and/or technical assistance on water or soil questions, visit http://warrenswcd.com or call, 513-695-1337. ​

It is hard to believe but our food waste and other organic materials such as paper and yard trimmings equate to nearly 55% of our total waste with food making up 20-30% of this total.  When these items are in our landfills they breakdown and create a material called leachate, which is toxic and can pollute groundwater, surface water and soil. Vermicomposting, a process that relies on earthworms and microorganisms to break down organic matter and transform it into a product that can be used as a valuable soil amendment and source of plant nutrients, can help homeowners with their gardening efforts but also keeps organic materials from causing problems in the landfill!
Vermicomposting is a way to get earthworms to work for you in a more organized way. You can become a worm farmer easily. North Carolina State University Extension is a leader in vermicomposting. Rhonda Sherman with North Carolina Extension, states that you need 4 items to begin worm farming.

1. Worm Bin – You can purchase this through many different garden centers and websites. You can even make this on your own. If you choose to make your own bin, make sure that it has a tight fitting lid and is a dark color. The bin size depends on the amount of food discards produced by your household. According to North Carolina State University, “The general rule of thumb is one square foot of surface area for each pound of food discards generated per week. So if your household creates two pounds of food scraps weekly, you will need a 2-foot by 1-foot worm bin that is 8 to 20 inches deep.” To access plans simply search on the internet for, DIY worm bin.
2. Bedding – Bedding is needed to provide a good living environment for the worms. Bedding should be a material that is nontoxic, holds moisture, and allows air circulation. Items to use could be, shredded paper, newspapers, paper bags, office paper, cardboard, decaying leaves, or coir (coconut fiber). Glossy paper or magazines should not be used.  The bedding should be soaked for 5 to 10 minutes in a bucket of water and then should be wrung out. The bedding should be damp but not soaking wet. Worms should have 6 to 8 inches of bedding or at least half the depth of the worm bin.
3. Worms – It is not as simple as digging worms from a yard or garden. Out of the 9,000 worms only 7 species are known for use in vermicomposting. Of those, the Red Wiggler (Eisenia fetida) are the type of worm that is used most often with home composting systems. You can buy red wigglers from worm growers found online but be sure to shop around because prices do vary widely.  Once you receive the worms, worms should be placed on top of the bedding in the bin. The worms will immediately start to tunnel under the bedding to avoid the light. If you notice worms outside the bin, place the bin in a well-lit area for a couple of days to help the worms get acclimated to the bin.   
4. Food Scraps – After a few days worms should be ready to have some food scraps added to the bin. Items like vegetables, fruits, crushed eggshells, coffee grounds, shredded paper, shredded garden debris are acceptable. Meat items including fish should never be added to the bin. Other items that should not be added are pet/human manure, fat, citrus, tobacco, or onions and garlic. Once scrapes are added, cover them with 1 to 2 inches of bedding to prevent fruit flies.
   
   

Harvesting compost overtime is why you vermicompost to begin! It is the valuable mixture of earthworm castings and decomposed bedding and food scrapes that will help your plants thrive. There are several methods that are documented by Rhonda Sherman, Extension Solid Waste Specialist with North Carolina Extension:

1. Sideways Separation - To do this you feed the earthworms on only 1 side of the bin to harvest the vermicompost from the other side.
2. Light Separation - Empty all contents of the worm bin onto something like a plastic shower curtain in the light. Wait 5 minutes and scrape off the top layer of vermicompost. Continue to do this until you find the worms in clusters. Replace the left-over contents back in the bin. Be sure to add fresh bedding (6-8 inches) to the bin.
3. Vertical Separation – By feeding the worms in the upper bin the worms will migrate to where the food is, leaving the compost in the bottom bin to harvest.
   
   

With all methods of harvesting you will need to incorporate fresh bedding (6-8 inches) into the mix to ensure that the worms have enough to continue to “work” through. Once your mixture is harvested it can be used immediately or it can be stored for later use. It is best to incorporate it lightly with the preexisting soil in the vegetable garden or around trees and shrubs. Vermicompost can also be used as a top dressing for your lawn.
Sometimes worm bins may have issues that arise over time. It is important to note that your bin should not:

• smell bad (could be that the bin is too wet, or not enough air is moving through, or too many food scrapes have been added),
• attract flies (could be too much food has been added, or food scrapes have not been buried enough),
• have mold (could be that conditions are too acidic),
• have dry bedding (could be too much air is moving through the bin)
• have large numbers of worms dying/crawling out of the bin (could be too much food or too little food has been added, or the bin has been exposed to extreme temps, or the bin is too wet or too dry), or
• have lots of liquid in the bottom. This is called leachate and should not form in the bottom of the bin (could be too much food has been added or that there is poor ventilation or overwatering). It is important to note that leachate is not compost tea and should not be added to your garden.
  ​
  

Vermicomposting is a way to get earthworms to work for you and convert your organic waste into a valuable soil amendment that you can use in your garden! Over time you will learn to understand feeding, worm care and how to best harvest your compost. For more questions regarding Warren County Soil and Water Conservation District programs and/or technical assistance on water or soil questions, visit http://warrenswcd.com or call, 513-695-1337. 

It is very rewarding to grow your own veggies and to have showy flower beds! Utilizing compost is a great way to create thriving gardens and increase the porosity of your soil and give you the gardens you have always wanted! Through composting you enhance your garden’s ability to grow healthy plants while reducing your volume of trash.
Compost strengthens the soil food web, which is made-up of microscopic bacteria and fungi, along with earthworms, insects and many other life forms. Fungi form mutually rewarding partnerships with plant roots, making it possible for vegetables to feed themselves more efficiently. The addition of composted materials also improves soil physical properties, such as tilth, infiltration, drainage and water-holding capacity.
Compost is decomposed organic matter. It can be made from leaf/grass debris, food scraps, manure from animals or other organic materials. It can be bought or you can make your own. The key is to ensure that it cannot be distinguished from what it once was! If your product still has distinguishable items (banana peels, manure clods, etc.) in it, key nutrients like nitrogen will be used to break down this material instead of being available to the plants.

For example, if large quantities of uncomposted leaves are incorporated into the soil, microbes will compete with plants' roots for soil nitrogen during leaf decomposition. This competition for nitrogen can result in nitrogen deficiency and poor plant growth. Composting breaks down organic materials into an end product that increases the availability of essential minerals, such as potassium and phosphorous, to growing plants and reduces the competition for nitrogen.

Composting at Home
Composting at home is a great way to keep food wastes (non-animal) products out of our landfills and it is fairly easy to do! You need to make sure that you have a good ratio of “greens” or nitrogen and “browns” or carbons and is much like a recipe. It is referred to as the C/N ratio.  The C/N ratio refers to the amount of carbon ( C ) and nitrogen ( N ) in materials that are added to a compost pile. The preferred C/N ratio is 25 to 30 parts carbon to 1 part nitrogen. Materials categorized as "brown," such as straw, contain more carbon than nitrogen and have higher C/N ratios than "green" materials such as fresh green grass. A compost pile will decompose faster at lower C/N ratios, with more green material, however, much of the nitrogen used by decomposers as energy will be lost more quickly and will need to be replenished. If too much brown material has been added to the pile, the pile will decompose slowly.

Acceptable items to compost:
"Green" materials

• Fresh leaves, plant cuttings and weeds
• Thatch
• Grass clippings. Though they will compost, they will also benefit your lawn if left to decompose on your yard.
• Fruit and vegetable peels and other fruit wastes
• Manure
• Coffee grounds and tea bags

"Brown" materials

• Dead weeds and dry leaves
• Clipped brush
• Wood ash
• Egg shells
• Sawdust
• Wood chips
• Straw

 
What not to include in the pile

• Meat
• Bones
• Cheese, salad dressing, oils and other fats; they can cause odors and attract animals
• Plant material with visible signs of disease or insect infestation
• Weeds that can easily grow from root or stem cuttings
• Check with local and county codes as some materials such as raw animal manure may be prohibited in a compost pile
• Human and pet waste

 
For most efficient composting, use a pile that is between 3 feet cubed and 5 feet cubed (27-125 cu. ft.). This allows the center of the pile to heat up sufficiently to break down materials.  Smaller piles can be made but will take longer to produce finished compost. Larger piles can be made by increasing the length of the pile but limiting the height and the depth to 5 feet tall by 5 feet deep; however, large piles are limited by a person’s ability to turn the materials. You may also want to have two piles, one for finished compost ready to use in the garden, and the other for unfinished compost.

For questions regarding Warren County Soil and Water Conservation District programs and/or technical assistance on water or soil questions, visit http://warrenswcd.com or call, 513-695-1337. 

(Article taken from USEPA – Composting at Home (https://www.epa.gov/recycle/composting-home) and Ohio EPA Citizens Guide to Composting - https://epa.ohio.gov/portals/47/facts/citizens_guide_to_composting.pdf )

During this unusual and challenging year many of us have looked for new hobbies to fill our time. Composting is a hobby that is not only fun, but it is beneficial to the soil and your wallet! Composting is nature’s way of recycling leaves, grass clippings, kitchen scraps and other organic wastes by converting them into a valuable soil amendment called compost. By composting at home, you’ll enjoy the financial benefits of free soil enrichment, reduce the amount of solid wastes sent to landfills and conserve resources.
Compost is organic material that can be added to soil to help plants grow. Food scraps and yard waste together currently make up more than 28 percent of what we throw away, and should be composted instead. Making compost keeps these materials out of landfills where they take up space and release methane, a potent greenhouse gas.
Composting at home is very easy and practical. Once you learn the basics, you’ll be turning out lush piles of rich compost in short order. Using compost yields faster-growing, stronger plants. The chief value in using compost is the beneficial effect on soil structure. Incorporating compost into the soil improves aeration and drainage and makes the soil loose and easy to work. Compost increases the organic matter content of clay and sandy soils, allowing them to better retain water and nutrients. It also helps control erosion, proper pH balance and plant disease.
All composting requires three basic ingredients:

• Browns - This includes materials such as dead leaves, branches, and twigs.
• Greens - This includes materials such as grass clippings, vegetable waste, fruit scraps, and coffee grounds.
• Water - Having the right amount of water, greens, and browns is important for compost development.

Your compost pile should have an equal amount of browns to greens. You should also alternate layers of organic materials of different-sized particles. The brown materials provide carbon for your compost, the green materials provide nitrogen, and the water provides moisture to help break down the organic matter.

What To Compost

• Fruits and vegetables
• Eggshells
• Coffee grounds and filters
• Tea bags
• Nut shells
• Shredded newspaper
• Cardboard
• Paper
• Yard trimmings
• Grass clippings
• Houseplants
• Hay and straw
• Leaves
• Sawdust
• Wood chips
• Cotton and Wool Rags
• Dryer and vacuum cleaner lint
• Hair and fur
• Fireplace ashes

 
What Not To Compost and Why

• Black walnut tree leaves or twigs
  - Releases substances that might be harmful to plants
• Coal or charcoal ash
  - Might contain substances harmful to plants
• Dairy products (e.g., butter, milk, sour cream, yogurt) and eggs
  - Create odor problems and attract pests such as rodents and flies
• Diseased or insect-ridden plants
  - Diseases or insects might survive and be transferred back to other plants
• Fats, grease, lard, or oils*
  - Create odor problems and attract pests such as rodents and flies
• Meat or fish bones and scraps*
  - Create odor problems and attract pests such as rodents and flies
• Pet wastes (e.g., dog or cat feces, soiled cat litter)
  - Might contain parasites, bacteria, germs, pathogens, and viruses harmful to humans
• Yard trimmings treated with chemical pesticides
  - Might kill beneficial composting organisms

 
Selecting and Building your Composting Site

• Select a dry, partial sunny spot near a water source for your compost pile or bin. Please take note that full sun locations can quickly dry out a compost pile and keep materials from breaking down. Alternatively, if the pile is in a very shady location, the contents will not breakdown quickly.

• Add brown and green materials in layers as they are collected, making sure larger pieces are chopped or shredded.

• Moisten dry materials as they are added.
• Turn pile once a week for two or three weeks, then once a month until compost is ready to use.
• The optimal size of a compost pile is 3’x3’x3’ or one cubic yard.

• Once your compost pile is established, mix grass clippings and green waste into the pile. Bury fruit and vegetable waste under 10 inches of compost material.

• Optional: Cover top of compost with a tarp to keep it moist. When the material at the bottom is dark and rich in color, your compost is ready to use. This usually takes anywhere between two months to two years.
  

Compost can be made in just two or three weeks during the summer if the leaves and other materials are finely ground or shredded, turned frequently to provide good aeration and supplied with sufficient moisture and nitrogen.
For more questions regarding Warren County Soil and Water Conservation District programs and/or technical assistance on water or soil questions, visit http://warrenswcd.com or call, 513-695-1337.