The most wonderful season has finally returned- Fall! Which means our leaves are starting to do just that!  Instead of  bagging your leaves and tossing them in the trash, simply leave them!

"Leaving the leaves and other plant debris doesn’t have to mean sacrificing your yard to the wilderness. The leaves don’t need to be left exactly where they fall. You can rake them into garden beds, around tree bases, or into other designated areas. Too many leaves can kill grass, but in soil they can suppress weeds, retain moisture, and boost nutrition." Xerces Society

Avoid shredding leaves with a mower. Raking or blowing (electric) are alternatives that will keep leaves whole for the best cover and protect the insects and eggs already living there.
If you decide you need to mow and mulch the leaves to clean up the debris in spring, make sure you wait until late in the season so as not to destroy all the life you’ve worked to protect. 
Then when you do, you will see the benefits of leaf mulch, like:

• Fertilize your lawn.
• Improve soil quality.
• Suppress weeds.
• Prevent topsoil erosion.
• Provide habitat and food to micro-organisms, pollinators, and other small critters.

 
Let’s say you’ve mulched as many leaves as you could into the lawn, but you still have more… now what? Use your leaves (shredded or whole) as an ingredient in your compost pile! Composting is a simple way to recycle household/kitchen/yard waste into a nutrient-rich and biologically stable soil amendment. The four main ingredients to a compost pile are: carbon-rich materials (i.e. your leaves), nitrogen-rich materials (like grass clippings, coffee grounds, tea bags, and fruit/veg scraps), water, and air. The goal is to maintain a 30:1 ratio of Carbon and Nitrogen. In other words, you’ll need a lot of leaves to mix in with your household scraps.

​Fall is a great time with great weather to be had, and we like to spend our precious time enjoying it. So when your yard is full of leaves and you think of reaching for the rake, leave it be! 

Additional Resources
 
USDA- Leave the Leaves
PennState Extension- Composting Leaves Guide

The inclusion of cover crops in a cash crop rotation can have huge benefits to soil fertility and productivity, while at the same time protecting waterways from excess nutrient runoff.
​
Nitrogen Production
Cover crops, specifically legumes, can create plant available nitrogen (NH3) from nitrogen gas (N2) which is readily found in the Earth’s atmosphere. Legumes create nitrogen through a symbiotic relationship with the bacteria, Rhizobium. Rhizobia infects the legumes root hairs; the bacteria receive its required sugars and vital nutrients while the host legume receives the excess plant available nitrogen. It is estimated that one-half of the NH3 created becomes available to the subsequently planted crop, approximately 1-2 months after the legume has been terminated.

Nutrient Scavenging
A common concern in modern agriculture both by farmers and water quality experts is the amount of applied nutrients that are left on the field after cash crops have been harvested. In a typical cash crop rotation, crop ground can lay fallow for several months giving nutrients the correct conditions to rapidly exit the field. In the scenario where a cover crop is established rapidly after or even before harvest, these leftover nutrients  in the soil are taken up by the cover crop. Nutrients are safely stored until the cover crop is terminated and the nutrients can again be made available for a cash crop or remain as organic matter. This both reduces the amount of excess nutrients entering waterways, but also keeps farmer’s dollars (spent on fertilizer) in the field where it is an asset for future cash crops.

Soil Builder – Compaction Breaker
Cover crops also stand to improve soil quality and composition. Most notably the life cycle of a cover crop dictates that it is not harvested at termination. In this scenario the organic matter from the terminated crop all remains in the field and over time will increase the amount of organic matter of the top soil. Organic matter is an important aspect of soil health; it directly correlates to fertility in that a nominal amount of organic matter will: provide food for the soil’s microbial ecosystem, improve water infiltration and holding capacity, and enhance its ability to hold onto and supply nutrients to growing crops.

Specific cover crops can also be a vital tool against compaction. The ever-increasing size of agricultural machinery is cause for concern regarding the compaction of productive soils. Cover crops which have deep roots can penetrate deep into the ground, improving soil permeability, which in turn increases water infiltration and aeration. Additionally, specific cover crops which have large taproots can break through hard pans and compacted layers of soil. This creates macropores for future cash crop root growth.

Erosion Prevention
Perhaps the most well-known benefit of cover cropping is the claim that planting a cover crop reduces erosion. The crop is physically “covering” the soil and shields it from both wind and water erosion. A 6mm raindrop is traveling up to 20 mph when it impacts the surface. The drops impact on the soil displaces soil particles and starts the process of erosion. Shielding bare soil with a cover crop keeps soil in place and retains the structure of the topsoil. Live roots along waterways and areas that carry water during heavy rains also help keep soil aggregates stationary during wet season rains.

Additional Benefits
Cover crops can provide weed suppression benefits. This is typically done by out competing or overshading growing weeds. Additionally, some species of cover crops have the ability to release substances and chemically inhibit the growth of surrounding plants (i.e. cereal rye, sunflowers and buckwheat).  Cover crops if managed properly and planned accordingly can also provide grazing and forage opportunities to growers who also manage herds of livestock.
 
Program Opportunity:
To learn more about the benefits and types of cover crops for southwest Ohio, please join the Warren County Soil and Water Conservation District for the annual Agriculture Conservation Breakfast on February 24th from 8:30AM-11AM at the Countryside YMCA Events Center, 1699 Deerfield Road, Lebanon. This program is free, but registration is required. To register, please go to warren.swcd.com or call, 513-695-1337.

Additional Resources:
Rain or Shine (https://open.library.okstate.edu/rainorshine/chapter/5-3-raindrop-impact/)
Cover Crop Farmers of Southwest Ohio (https://clermontswcd.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/23/2017/12/covercropfarmers.pdf)
Cover Crops for Southwest Ohio (https://fairfieldswcd.org/wp-content/uploads/2017/02/SWOhioCover-CropBooklet.pdf)
Ohio Cover Crops (https://cfaes.osu.edu/features/ohio-cover-crops) 

As the common name suggests, Asian jumping worms (Amynthas spp.) seem to jump or thrash when handled. Little kids and worm lovers might be excited by a find like this in their lawn, garden or woodlot but finding this worm is not beneficial for the native environment.

Why Jumping Worms Are A Problem
Most worms that you find in the Midwest are European and Asian non-natives. Both of these non-native types alter the native environment, although Asian jumping worms do it at a more alarming rate.  Jumping worms grow twice as fast, reproduce more quickly, and can work through organic debris much quicker than other worms. These invasive worms can severely damage the roots of plants in nurseries, gardens, forests, and turf. In areas of heavy infestation, native plants, microorganisms and animals such as salamanders may decline.

Asian jumping worms are an annual species; the adults die after the first freeze. But the cocoons, which are about the size of a mustard seed and resemble small pieces of dirt, will survive the winter and hatch when temperatures reach 50°F for a consistent period. These self-fertilizing worms do not need mates and can produce cocoons on their own. Because populations can grow faster than the common European species, they may out-compete existing worm populations. Cocoons can be spread easily in potted plants, on landscaping equipment, mulch, tire treads, and even hiking boots.
One telltale sign of an infestation is a very uniform, granular soil created from worm castings that are commonly said to look like coffee grounds. When you scratch the top layer of soil you will see the worms thrashing about with an erratic, snakelike movement. These worms, which can reach 6 inches in length, are much more active than European nightcrawlers. The Asian jumping worm can be found on the soil surface and in the leaf litter, making them easy to find. They can live anywhere from urban parks and suburban backyards to rural forests. You are also very likely to find them in compost piles and along roads.

Earthworm species have a body part called the clitellum where egg cocoons are produced. The Asian jumping worm has a prominent clitellum that completely encircles the body, is milky white to light gray, and is flush with the body; the body looks metallic. On European nightcrawlers, the clitellum is raised or saddle-shaped and reddish-brown in color and does not wrap entirely around the body.

Management
There is no magic control for these worms once they are found in soil. Asian jumping worms can now be found in the East, Mid-Atlantic, Midwest, and some Northwestern states. Prevention is the best way to keep them from being introduced to new areas. According to Wisconsin Department of Natural Resources, the following steps will reduce the spread of jumping worms:

• Educate yourself and others to recognize jumping worms
• Watch for jumping worms and signs of their presence
• Arrive clean, leave clean. Clean soil and debris from vehicles, equipment and personal gear before moving to and from a work or recreational area – they might contain jumping worms or their cocoons
• Use, sell, plant, purchase or trade only landscape and gardening materials and plants that appear to be free of jumping worms
• Sell, purchase or trade only compost and mulch that was heated to appropriate temperatures and duration following protocols that reduce pathogens.

According to Ohio State University Extension, much is unknown about the long-term effects of these worms, with research currently underway regarding control strategies in different environments.  Inorder to understand and track the presence of these worms OSU has developed a reporting site where Ohio gardeners can document locations of suspected populations. Gardeners should visit [ https://go.osu.edu/asianjumpingworms ] to report suspected locations and upload photographs.
​
Until effective research-based control strategies are developed to keep populations of this worm in check, gardeners should closely examine soil, compost, wood chips, and other soil amendments they move on or off their property. Learn how to identify these worms and educate your gardening friends and neighbors so they too can identify these worms.  If you do find these worms on your property, never share plants or soil with other gardeners.

For more questions regarding Warren County Soil and Water Conservation District programs and/or technical assistance on water or soil questions, visit http://warrenswcd.com or call, 513-695-1337. ​

It is hard to believe but our food waste and other organic materials such as paper and yard trimmings equate to nearly 55% of our total waste with food making up 20-30% of this total.  When these items are in our landfills they breakdown and create a material called leachate, which is toxic and can pollute groundwater, surface water and soil. Vermicomposting, a process that relies on earthworms and microorganisms to break down organic matter and transform it into a product that can be used as a valuable soil amendment and source of plant nutrients, can help homeowners with their gardening efforts but also keeps organic materials from causing problems in the landfill!
Vermicomposting is a way to get earthworms to work for you in a more organized way. You can become a worm farmer easily. North Carolina State University Extension is a leader in vermicomposting. Rhonda Sherman with North Carolina Extension, states that you need 4 items to begin worm farming.

1. Worm Bin – You can purchase this through many different garden centers and websites. You can even make this on your own. If you choose to make your own bin, make sure that it has a tight fitting lid and is a dark color. The bin size depends on the amount of food discards produced by your household. According to North Carolina State University, “The general rule of thumb is one square foot of surface area for each pound of food discards generated per week. So if your household creates two pounds of food scraps weekly, you will need a 2-foot by 1-foot worm bin that is 8 to 20 inches deep.” To access plans simply search on the internet for, DIY worm bin.
2. Bedding – Bedding is needed to provide a good living environment for the worms. Bedding should be a material that is nontoxic, holds moisture, and allows air circulation. Items to use could be, shredded paper, newspapers, paper bags, office paper, cardboard, decaying leaves, or coir (coconut fiber). Glossy paper or magazines should not be used.  The bedding should be soaked for 5 to 10 minutes in a bucket of water and then should be wrung out. The bedding should be damp but not soaking wet. Worms should have 6 to 8 inches of bedding or at least half the depth of the worm bin.
3. Worms – It is not as simple as digging worms from a yard or garden. Out of the 9,000 worms only 7 species are known for use in vermicomposting. Of those, the Red Wiggler (Eisenia fetida) are the type of worm that is used most often with home composting systems. You can buy red wigglers from worm growers found online but be sure to shop around because prices do vary widely.  Once you receive the worms, worms should be placed on top of the bedding in the bin. The worms will immediately start to tunnel under the bedding to avoid the light. If you notice worms outside the bin, place the bin in a well-lit area for a couple of days to help the worms get acclimated to the bin.   
4. Food Scraps – After a few days worms should be ready to have some food scraps added to the bin. Items like vegetables, fruits, crushed eggshells, coffee grounds, shredded paper, shredded garden debris are acceptable. Meat items including fish should never be added to the bin. Other items that should not be added are pet/human manure, fat, citrus, tobacco, or onions and garlic. Once scrapes are added, cover them with 1 to 2 inches of bedding to prevent fruit flies.
   
   

Harvesting compost overtime is why you vermicompost to begin! It is the valuable mixture of earthworm castings and decomposed bedding and food scrapes that will help your plants thrive. There are several methods that are documented by Rhonda Sherman, Extension Solid Waste Specialist with North Carolina Extension:

1. Sideways Separation - To do this you feed the earthworms on only 1 side of the bin to harvest the vermicompost from the other side.
2. Light Separation - Empty all contents of the worm bin onto something like a plastic shower curtain in the light. Wait 5 minutes and scrape off the top layer of vermicompost. Continue to do this until you find the worms in clusters. Replace the left-over contents back in the bin. Be sure to add fresh bedding (6-8 inches) to the bin.
3. Vertical Separation – By feeding the worms in the upper bin the worms will migrate to where the food is, leaving the compost in the bottom bin to harvest.
   
   

With all methods of harvesting you will need to incorporate fresh bedding (6-8 inches) into the mix to ensure that the worms have enough to continue to “work” through. Once your mixture is harvested it can be used immediately or it can be stored for later use. It is best to incorporate it lightly with the preexisting soil in the vegetable garden or around trees and shrubs. Vermicompost can also be used as a top dressing for your lawn.
Sometimes worm bins may have issues that arise over time. It is important to note that your bin should not:

• smell bad (could be that the bin is too wet, or not enough air is moving through, or too many food scrapes have been added),
• attract flies (could be too much food has been added, or food scrapes have not been buried enough),
• have mold (could be that conditions are too acidic),
• have dry bedding (could be too much air is moving through the bin)
• have large numbers of worms dying/crawling out of the bin (could be too much food or too little food has been added, or the bin has been exposed to extreme temps, or the bin is too wet or too dry), or
• have lots of liquid in the bottom. This is called leachate and should not form in the bottom of the bin (could be too much food has been added or that there is poor ventilation or overwatering). It is important to note that leachate is not compost tea and should not be added to your garden.
  ​
  

Vermicomposting is a way to get earthworms to work for you and convert your organic waste into a valuable soil amendment that you can use in your garden! Over time you will learn to understand feeding, worm care and how to best harvest your compost. For more questions regarding Warren County Soil and Water Conservation District programs and/or technical assistance on water or soil questions, visit http://warrenswcd.com or call, 513-695-1337. 

I recently came across an interesting video series produced by The USDA NRCS.  There is an introduction and 7 following chapters that explore how an increasing number of farmers throughout the country are creating a new hope in healthy soil by regenerating our nation’s living and life-giving soil.  You can watch all the videos here...
Molly Conley, Natural Resource Engineer