 Photo Credit: Gerald Holmes, Strawberry Center, Cal Poly San Luis Obispo, Bugwood.org Fall is upon us! The beauty of the leaves is one of the favorite sights of the season. Once the leaves fall from their trees, a new chore can be added to the list – leaf raking! This can be back-breaking work if done by hand. According to the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency in 2017, leaves and other yard debris account for more than 13 percent of the nation’s solid waste—a whopping 35 million tons a year! Creatively and judiciously managing leaves by mulch mowing can save time and money in your fertilization effort, save your back, and keep leaves out of the landfill. Here are some simple guidelines and strategies to help you mulch mow your leaves.
Mulch mowing is just what it sounds like - chopping leaves into small pieces until it turns into a mulch like material that is returned to the lawn. Leaf debris naturally composts, allowing nutrients to return to the soil. Successfully mulching leaves into the lawn requires frequent mowing in the fall and possibly several passes during one mowing session. It is important to chop leaves adequately until they’re about the size of a dime so the leaf debris breaks down quickly. Specialized mulching mowers are available, and these mower types will also be beneficial year-round to mulch grass leaves into the lawn. According to K-State Extension, “mowing during the leaf season is not based on grass growth but on the rate at which leaves fall and collect on the lawn. Mow a thin layer, approximately 1” each time. This thin layer is chopped by the mower and then filters through the leaf blades where it works its way down to the soil.” Research has shown that a total of six inches of leaves can be successfully shredded and composted into the lawn and thus returned to the soil without causing damage. If you determine that your trees deliver more than 6 inches of leaves, it is best to mulch mow then bag. This can be done by first mowing without a bag and then mowing a second time with a bag in place. The second pass will enable leaves to be sucked up into the bag and take-up considerably less space thus allowing you to decrease the volume of leaves two to four-fold. The chopped leaves can be used as mulch for flower gardens and trees to help conserve moisture. Just remember not to use more than 2-3” of mulch around plants and steer clear of the crowns of plants to deter voles and rot. The leftover leaves can also be used in the compost pile. Another reason to utilize leaves in your landscape, according to the National Wildlife Federation, is that “Removing leaves also eliminates vital wildlife habitat. Critters ranging from turtles and toads to birds, mammals and invertebrates rely on leaf litter for food, shelter and nesting material. Many moth and butterfly caterpillars overwinter in fallen leaves before emerging in spring.” Leaves should not be dumped into local streams as the extra organic matter can lead to excessive nutrients into our bodies of water thus causing potential algae issues and lower water quality. Leaves that are left on the street can also clog storm drains which can result in flooding. For questions regarding Warren County Soil and Water Conservation District programs and/or technical assistance on water or soil questions, visit http://warrenswcd.com or call, 513-695-1337. Additional Resources:
0 Comments
 As the arboreal leaves turn vibrant reds and oranges, some of us may be noticing a browning in our backyard gardens as tomato and pepper plants are coming to the end of their season. Depending on the weather, October can be an ideal time in Ohio to keep giving your garden a little bit more love and attention. And set your gaze on next season's success!
Fall garden basics:
Gardening is a wonderful way to connect with the outdoors and provide local sustenance, And by following conservation gardening techniques, you can maximize your garden yield while working in harmony with the local environment!  ‘Tis the season for campfires! Campfires are very relaxing and there is nothing better than roasting marshmallows over a campfire, but did you know that Ohio EPA has regulations in regards to campfires and potentially local ordinances exist in regards to burning?
As per Ohio EPA’s guidelines, bonfires, campfires and outdoor fireplace equipment are permissible if used for cooking, warmth, recreation, religious or ceremonial or similar purposes with the following guidelines as long as the:
For more guidelines from the Environmental Protection Agency, visit http://epa.ohio.gov/portals/47/facts/openburn.pdf Under Ohio Law, it is illegal to burn garbage, items made of rubber, grease, asphalt and petroleum, as well as dead animals. Also, burning household waste produces many toxic chemicals and is one of the largest known sources of dioxin in the nation. So what can you do instead? Citizens are urged to reduce the overall amount of waste that is being generated in their household and learn how to possibly reuse their items in another way, besides burning. In terms of recycling, contacting your local waste disposal provider on their curb-side pickup policies and possible drop-off locations would aid you and others in how to dispose of bulky and the potential hazardous items. Another option to reducing waste is composting! It is a great way to reduce your household waste such as yard trimmings and food scraps. The best part about compost is that you are able to create a natural fertilizer! For more information on composting, be sure to visit the following links:
 April showers bring May flowers, and now is the time to start thinking about getting your soil tested! Getting your soil tested helps you find out what your lawn and garden needs and ensures that you are not over fertilizing or hurting your plants. Over fertilizing means you are putting more nutrients into your soil than your plant needs to survive. So instead of being used, the nutrients get carried away by runoff and cause pollution problems in lakes, streams, and even groundwater.
Did you know that the major cause of algae blooms is too many nutrients in the water? We all have a responsibility to help reduce the likelihood of harmful algal blooms in places like the Little Miami River, Caesar's Creek Lake, Landon Lake, and other ponds, lakes, and streams in our community. Before you head out to shop for your outdoor landscape this spring, consider purchasing a soil test from us here at the Soil & Water Conservation District. Or, if you have a lawn service, make sure they conduct a soil test before adding anything to your lawn. Warren Co SWCD sells soil test kits - find out more here: https://www.warrenswcd.com/soil-testing.html Some of the questions we often get are listed below: How do I take a soil sample?
What does it test for? Your soil test will determine the soil nutrient levels for pH, Phosphours (P), Potassium (K), and Magnesium (Mg). The test will also let you know if you are below optimum, optimum, or above optimum for each of these nutrients. You will also get information on Calcium and the Cationic Exchange Capacity (CEC). Soils with a high CEC will remain fertile over a longer period of time, requiring fewer fertilizer applications. Soil pH will determine the way nutrients are made available to the plants. Why doesn't it test for Nitrogen? Nitrogen moves quickly through the soil, and some forms dissolve easily in water and are carried away with runoff. By the time your soil sample reaches the lab and they analyze it, the level of nitrogen is no longer what it was when you took the sample so the reported number would not be accurate. However, you will receive information on nutrient needs for Nitrogen, Phosphate, and Potassium based on your test results. Why should I test for organic matter? Generally, soil is made up of 45% minerals (rocks), 25% water, 25% air and 5% organic matter. The organic matter is the decomposing plant and animal material inside your soil and will range anywhere from 1-6% of the soil composition. Organic matter is very important to plant nutrition. Organic matter results in less soil compaction, allowing more air to pass through and increased water storage. Recommendations:
When will I receive my test results? You will receive an email with your results within 10 days after your sample is received by the lab. Without an email address, the results may take slightly longer by mail. What do I do once I receive the results? Your soil test report from MSU will provide you with recommendations on nutrient needs and fertilizer options based on your test results. Make sure you provide the lab with as much information about the test area as you can so they can provide more specific options. You can also go to their website: http://www.msusoiltest.com/understand-your-soil-test/ and type in your soil test details to receive a specific fertilizer ratio for N, P, and K. Do I need to fertilize? Not necessarily. One of the best fertilizers for your soil is compost! And once you have a container, it is free to make. You can also leave your grass clippings on your lawn after you mow to provide your grass with a ready source of fertilizer and help keep moisture on your lawn. Give us a call at the OSU Extension office: 513-695-1853 or Soil and Water Conservation District at 513-695-1337 for more assistance. Happy Spring! Information for this blog post was provided by Michigan State University Extension, the Ohio State University Extension and Hamilton County Soil and Water Conservation District.   Compost is a living soil enhancer. The strength of compost as a way to improve the health of your plants is through the living complex of microorganisms that it brings with it. These create an ecosystem in the soil which helps to promote root health, arrange nutrients in forms absorbable by the plants, and help get your garden through dry spells by holding on to more water. Composting is an essential part of a truly sustainable food system, as it closes the loop on the essential nutrients that plants need to grow. More than a third of trash generated in the US could be composted and returned to the soil, reducing our need for fertilizers. By composting, you can help to make our local food system a sustainable cycle! Compost makes all the sense in the world, but many find the process smelly, cumbersome and difficult. But composting doesn't have to be that way! Read this Composting 101 article on the basics of home composting. First up, bin type. Composting 101 describes the advantages and disadvantages of both open bins and closed containers. Once you determine which method is best for you, remember that Warren SWCD will sell a closed container in our Annual Tree Seedling Sale!  Next up is learning about what to put in your compost bin. Compost is created when you provide the right mixture of key ingredients for the millions of microorganisms that do the dirty work. These microorganisms will eat, multiply, and convert raw materials to compost as long as the environment is right. The environment doesn’t have to be absolutely “perfect,” so you don’t need to be a microbiologist or chemist to have successful compost. You need to provide: food, water, and air. The water and air are easy. The food is a little more complex. Food for your little micro friends consists of two classes of materials, simply referred to as “Greens” and “Browns.” Green materials are high in nitrogen, while brown materials are high in carbon. The green materials provide protein for the micro bugs, while the brown materials provide energy. Follow the advice at Composting 101 to determine the ideal combination or mix of these types of additives but generally you want to have 1/3 green, nitrogen-rich matter and 2/3 brown, carbon-rich matter.. Another comprehensive list of ingredients for your compost bin can be found HERE. Once you decide to start composting there are a few key ideas to read up on. Keeping your compost "hot" is an important skill/art. A "hot" compost bin has the perfect mix of browns and greens, water, air and micro bugs thrown in. This composting is often called aerobic because the microbes that require air have sufficient air to live, eat and reproduce quickly. The compost pile can reach temperatures as high as 160 degrees Fahrenheit, so care should be taken. If your compost bin is working efficiently, compost can be created in several weeks.  Turning: You’ll maximize your composting efforts if you continuously turn, or mix, the heap. Mixing your heap will help to keep the browns and greens in balance, will distribute moisture, and add essential air (oxygen) to the mixture. The core (the inside) of the compost heap is always hotter and is the center of activity. The outside is generally less active and much cooler. To increase the efficiency of the composting process, mix the heap to bring more of the raw materials from the outside to the core. Bring more food and water to the busy little micro bugs on the inside. Do not add these items to your compost bin:
Perfect uses for your compost:
 Still need some tips? Read Compost Info Guide: how to make better compost.
But what if you don't have the space or desire to compost at home? That's where organizations like Compost Dayton helps out! Compost Dayton exists to make composting easy. Composting is a smelly and dirty process, but with us both the weekly experience and the payment process are simple. All you have to do is fill and set out the bucket! Every week we'll bring you a clean one and track your contributions. If you can use your compost, we bring it to you in the spring. If you can't, we'll donate it to local organic food producers. Visit Compost Dayton to learn more. Molly Conley, Natural Resource Engineer |
|
|
Contact:PHONE: (513) 695 - 1337
EMAIL: [email protected] HOURS: Monday - Friday 7:30am - 4:00pm (except holidays) Connect:Warren County Soil & Water Conservation District Copyright © 2016
Warren SWCD Privacy Notice. Emails are serviced by Constant Contact. Constant Contact's Privacy Notice. |