As the common name suggests, Asian jumping worms (Amynthas spp.) seem to jump or thrash when handled. Little kids and worm lovers might be excited by a find like this in their lawn, garden or woodlot but finding this worm is not beneficial for the native environment.

Why Jumping Worms Are A Problem
Most worms that you find in the Midwest are European and Asian non-natives. Both of these non-native types alter the native environment, although Asian jumping worms do it at a more alarming rate.  Jumping worms grow twice as fast, reproduce more quickly, and can work through organic debris much quicker than other worms. These invasive worms can severely damage the roots of plants in nurseries, gardens, forests, and turf. In areas of heavy infestation, native plants, microorganisms and animals such as salamanders may decline.

Asian jumping worms are an annual species; the adults die after the first freeze. But the cocoons, which are about the size of a mustard seed and resemble small pieces of dirt, will survive the winter and hatch when temperatures reach 50°F for a consistent period. These self-fertilizing worms do not need mates and can produce cocoons on their own. Because populations can grow faster than the common European species, they may out-compete existing worm populations. Cocoons can be spread easily in potted plants, on landscaping equipment, mulch, tire treads, and even hiking boots.
One telltale sign of an infestation is a very uniform, granular soil created from worm castings that are commonly said to look like coffee grounds. When you scratch the top layer of soil you will see the worms thrashing about with an erratic, snakelike movement. These worms, which can reach 6 inches in length, are much more active than European nightcrawlers. The Asian jumping worm can be found on the soil surface and in the leaf litter, making them easy to find. They can live anywhere from urban parks and suburban backyards to rural forests. You are also very likely to find them in compost piles and along roads.

Earthworm species have a body part called the clitellum where egg cocoons are produced. The Asian jumping worm has a prominent clitellum that completely encircles the body, is milky white to light gray, and is flush with the body; the body looks metallic. On European nightcrawlers, the clitellum is raised or saddle-shaped and reddish-brown in color and does not wrap entirely around the body.

Management
There is no magic control for these worms once they are found in soil. Asian jumping worms can now be found in the East, Mid-Atlantic, Midwest, and some Northwestern states. Prevention is the best way to keep them from being introduced to new areas. According to Wisconsin Department of Natural Resources, the following steps will reduce the spread of jumping worms:

• Educate yourself and others to recognize jumping worms
• Watch for jumping worms and signs of their presence
• Arrive clean, leave clean. Clean soil and debris from vehicles, equipment and personal gear before moving to and from a work or recreational area – they might contain jumping worms or their cocoons
• Use, sell, plant, purchase or trade only landscape and gardening materials and plants that appear to be free of jumping worms
• Sell, purchase or trade only compost and mulch that was heated to appropriate temperatures and duration following protocols that reduce pathogens.

According to Ohio State University Extension, much is unknown about the long-term effects of these worms, with research currently underway regarding control strategies in different environments.  Inorder to understand and track the presence of these worms OSU has developed a reporting site where Ohio gardeners can document locations of suspected populations. Gardeners should visit [ https://go.osu.edu/asianjumpingworms ] to report suspected locations and upload photographs.
​
Until effective research-based control strategies are developed to keep populations of this worm in check, gardeners should closely examine soil, compost, wood chips, and other soil amendments they move on or off their property. Learn how to identify these worms and educate your gardening friends and neighbors so they too can identify these worms.  If you do find these worms on your property, never share plants or soil with other gardeners.

For more questions regarding Warren County Soil and Water Conservation District programs and/or technical assistance on water or soil questions, visit http://warrenswcd.com or call, 513-695-1337. ​

Citizens are urged to be careful not to bring the Spotted Lantern Fly (SLF) home with them as a hitchhiker. People driving out of state or to parts of Ohio with known infestations should inspect and/or wash their vehicles upon return to ensure these insects have not accidentally traveled back with them.

Spotted Lantern Fly (SLF) which is an invasive plant hopper that is native to China was found in Pennsylvania in 2014. In late 2020, SLF was found in southern Ohio in Mingo Junction and in northern Ohio, Cuyahoga County in 2021. It is a major pest of crops including grapes, apples, hops, walnuts and hardwood trees. Nymphs and adults prefer to feed on the invasive tree of heaven (Ailanthus altissima) but can feed on more than 70 plant species, and has the potential to greatly impact the viticulture, tree fruit, nursery, and timber industries.
The insects suck sap from stems and branches which can weaken and damage the plant. The feeding can result in oozing sap, wilting, leaf curling, and dieback. In addition, during feeding the SLF secretes honeydew which can buildup on and underneath the plant, which in turn promotes the growth of black sooty mold.

Black sooty mold around the base of plants or oozing sap may indicate the presence of the spotted lanternfly, however other pests can cause these symptoms as well. Black sooty mold is harmless to people however it causes damage to plants. In counties infested and quarantined for spotted lanternfly, residents report hundreds of these insects that affect their quality of life and ability to enjoy the outdoors during the spring and summer months. Spotted lanternflies will cover trees, swarm in the air, and their honeydew can coat decks and play equipment.

SLF will lay eggs beginning in October through the beginning of winter. The egg masses of the SLF are small, grey masses protected by a waxy covering. After hatching in late spring, the SLF goes through four nymph stages. During the first three they appear black with white spots, and in the last stage, which typically occurs during mid-summer, they are red with white dots and black stripes. During the late summer and autumn, the SLF is in the adult moth stage. These adults are larger (approximately 1 inch), with black bodies and brightly colored wings.

Spotted lanternfly, which likely arrived on imported goods from Asia, is a plant hopper and not a strong flier. It is moved greater distances by people moving infested materials. It lays eggs on almost any surface, including vehicles, trailers, outdoor equipment, patio furniture, etc. Egg masses can be removed by scrapping with a hard or rigid tool and disposed of into a container of rubbing alcohol.
Early detection is critical to prevent economic and ecological losses. The public has played a key role in detecting spotted lanternfly and the success of stopping its spread depends on help from the public to look for and report signs of the pest.

If you suspect a spotted lanternfly infestation, at any life stage, please report the finding to the Ohio Department of Agriculture Plant Pest Control (614-728-6400, plantpest@agri.ohio.gov), your local OSU Extension specialist (https://extension.osu.edu) or by using the Great Lakes Early Detection mobile reporting app (https://apps.bugwood.org/apps/gledn/).
For more questions regarding Warren County Soil and Water Conservation District programs and/or technical assistance on water or soil questions, visit http://warrenswcd.com or call, 513-695-1337. ​

It is hard to believe but our food waste and other organic materials such as paper and yard trimmings equate to nearly 55% of our total waste with food making up 20-30% of this total.  When these items are in our landfills they breakdown and create a material called leachate, which is toxic and can pollute groundwater, surface water and soil. Vermicomposting, a process that relies on earthworms and microorganisms to break down organic matter and transform it into a product that can be used as a valuable soil amendment and source of plant nutrients, can help homeowners with their gardening efforts but also keeps organic materials from causing problems in the landfill!
Vermicomposting is a way to get earthworms to work for you in a more organized way. You can become a worm farmer easily. North Carolina State University Extension is a leader in vermicomposting. Rhonda Sherman with North Carolina Extension, states that you need 4 items to begin worm farming.

1. Worm Bin – You can purchase this through many different garden centers and websites. You can even make this on your own. If you choose to make your own bin, make sure that it has a tight fitting lid and is a dark color. The bin size depends on the amount of food discards produced by your household. According to North Carolina State University, “The general rule of thumb is one square foot of surface area for each pound of food discards generated per week. So if your household creates two pounds of food scraps weekly, you will need a 2-foot by 1-foot worm bin that is 8 to 20 inches deep.” To access plans simply search on the internet for, DIY worm bin.
2. Bedding – Bedding is needed to provide a good living environment for the worms. Bedding should be a material that is nontoxic, holds moisture, and allows air circulation. Items to use could be, shredded paper, newspapers, paper bags, office paper, cardboard, decaying leaves, or coir (coconut fiber). Glossy paper or magazines should not be used.  The bedding should be soaked for 5 to 10 minutes in a bucket of water and then should be wrung out. The bedding should be damp but not soaking wet. Worms should have 6 to 8 inches of bedding or at least half the depth of the worm bin.
3. Worms – It is not as simple as digging worms from a yard or garden. Out of the 9,000 worms only 7 species are known for use in vermicomposting. Of those, the Red Wiggler (Eisenia fetida) are the type of worm that is used most often with home composting systems. You can buy red wigglers from worm growers found online but be sure to shop around because prices do vary widely.  Once you receive the worms, worms should be placed on top of the bedding in the bin. The worms will immediately start to tunnel under the bedding to avoid the light. If you notice worms outside the bin, place the bin in a well-lit area for a couple of days to help the worms get acclimated to the bin.   
4. Food Scraps – After a few days worms should be ready to have some food scraps added to the bin. Items like vegetables, fruits, crushed eggshells, coffee grounds, shredded paper, shredded garden debris are acceptable. Meat items including fish should never be added to the bin. Other items that should not be added are pet/human manure, fat, citrus, tobacco, or onions and garlic. Once scrapes are added, cover them with 1 to 2 inches of bedding to prevent fruit flies.
   
   

Harvesting compost overtime is why you vermicompost to begin! It is the valuable mixture of earthworm castings and decomposed bedding and food scrapes that will help your plants thrive. There are several methods that are documented by Rhonda Sherman, Extension Solid Waste Specialist with North Carolina Extension:

1. Sideways Separation - To do this you feed the earthworms on only 1 side of the bin to harvest the vermicompost from the other side.
2. Light Separation - Empty all contents of the worm bin onto something like a plastic shower curtain in the light. Wait 5 minutes and scrape off the top layer of vermicompost. Continue to do this until you find the worms in clusters. Replace the left-over contents back in the bin. Be sure to add fresh bedding (6-8 inches) to the bin.
3. Vertical Separation – By feeding the worms in the upper bin the worms will migrate to where the food is, leaving the compost in the bottom bin to harvest.
   
   

With all methods of harvesting you will need to incorporate fresh bedding (6-8 inches) into the mix to ensure that the worms have enough to continue to “work” through. Once your mixture is harvested it can be used immediately or it can be stored for later use. It is best to incorporate it lightly with the preexisting soil in the vegetable garden or around trees and shrubs. Vermicompost can also be used as a top dressing for your lawn.
Sometimes worm bins may have issues that arise over time. It is important to note that your bin should not:

• smell bad (could be that the bin is too wet, or not enough air is moving through, or too many food scrapes have been added),
• attract flies (could be too much food has been added, or food scrapes have not been buried enough),
• have mold (could be that conditions are too acidic),
• have dry bedding (could be too much air is moving through the bin)
• have large numbers of worms dying/crawling out of the bin (could be too much food or too little food has been added, or the bin has been exposed to extreme temps, or the bin is too wet or too dry), or
• have lots of liquid in the bottom. This is called leachate and should not form in the bottom of the bin (could be too much food has been added or that there is poor ventilation or overwatering). It is important to note that leachate is not compost tea and should not be added to your garden.
  ​
  

Vermicomposting is a way to get earthworms to work for you and convert your organic waste into a valuable soil amendment that you can use in your garden! Over time you will learn to understand feeding, worm care and how to best harvest your compost. For more questions regarding Warren County Soil and Water Conservation District programs and/or technical assistance on water or soil questions, visit http://warrenswcd.com or call, 513-695-1337. 

When paint is not stored or disposed of properly, paint can become a hazardous waste! To avoid health and environmental hazards, using, storing and disposing of paint should be done correctly.

Understanding Paint Components:
According to University of Missouri Extension, most paint has four components: resin, solvent, pigment and additives. To determine the hazardous ingredients of paint, request a Material Safety Data Sheet from the retailer when you buy it.  The resin is the main ingredient and forms a coating or film on the surface being painted. This typically non-hazardous component includes linseed, acrylic or other synthetic resins.  The solvent keeps the paint in a liquid form until the solvent evaporates after the paint is applied. The solvent in oil-based paint is derived from a petroleum distillate and can include such hazardous ingredients as mineral spirits, toluene and xylene. The solvent in latex paint is water.  Pigments provide the color and opacity or covering power. The major pigments used presently are titanium oxide, iron oxide, calcium sulfate, clay or silicates. These pigments are relatively nontoxic. Some highly colored pigments may contain heavy metals such as chromium, cadmium or arsenic.  Paints purchased before 1977 may contain lead in the pigment. Lead, also a heavy metal, is poisonous. Do not use paint purchased prior to 1977. To determine if the painted surfaces in your home contain lead, contact your local health department or a lead paint removal contractor.

Paint may also have additives. Some types of additives include stabilizers that prevent paint deterioration in the can, dryers that assist in the formation of the paint coating, thickeners that aid in application, and preservatives that inhibit the growth of molds. The additives can range in composition, including both hazardous and non-hazardous ingredients.  Some latex paints contain a mercury-based fungicide preservative. Mercury is a heavy metal that is highly toxic. Paints containing mercury produced since August 1990 had to be labeled exclusively for exterior use.
​
Proper Paint Storage:

• Store the tightly sealed paint can upside-down, so that the paint will form a seal around the lid.
• Store paint cans in dry areas that will not freeze.
• Store paint cans away from sources of spark or flame.

For questions regarding Warren County Soil and Water Conservation District programs and/or technical assistance on water or soil questions, visit http://warrenswcd.com or call, 513-695-1337.

In Warren County, Ohio storm drains and yard drains lead directly to creeks and drinking water reservoirs with no treatment. Water conditioners, chlorine, bromine, algaecides, biocides, stabilizers, salts and other chemicals used in pool and spa water are toxic to fish and other aquatic life and disrupt the natural balance within waterways.
 
Pool chemicals are prohibited by law from being discharged into storm drains or waterways. Allowable discharges include dechlorinated pool water that has no trace of chemicals. Pool filter backwash or saltwater pool discharges are prohibited in storm drains and drainage channels leading to streams.
 
How to Properly Drain Pool/Spa Water
 

• Before draining, let pool water sit for a week (7-10 days) with no addition of chemicals. The pH range should be between 6.5 and 8.0 and total residual chlorine or bromine needs to be less than 1.0mg/l (ppm) before discharging. Use a testing kit to verify levels.
• When pool water is free of all chemicals, drain pool water to landscaped areas, lawns or woods. Control the flow of the draining pool water to prevent soil erosion. Drain the pool slowly over a period of a few days to allow vegetation to absorb most of the water. You can also devise a pool drain “fountain” to spread water in your yard and avoid erosion.
• Consider using sanitary sewer connections in or around the home.
• Drain pool water slowly enough to avoid flooding of your neighbor’s property or any other property nearby.
• DO NOT drain swimming pool or spa water to your septic system as system failures may occur!  

 
The community you live in may have more stringent requirements under local laws for swimming pool discharges.  Therefore, it is important that you also check with your community to determine what requirements they may have in place.
 
For questions regarding Warren County Soil and Water Conservation District programs and/or technical assistance on water or soil questions, visit http://warrenswcd.com or call, 513-695-1337.