Incorporating green infrastructure provides many benefits such as improving water quality by removing pollutants, habitat preservation for native plants and animals, decreasing urbanization stream impacts, and overall enhancement of neighborhood aesthetics. The following is a list of management practices that landowners can incorporate on their own property to help control and keep stormwater clean. (Sources: Penn State Extension, United States Environmental Protection Agency)

• Downspout Disconnect/Redirect - If your downspouts are directed onto a paved or concrete surface or are directly connected to the storm drain system, look for opportunities to redirect them to lawn and garden areas if community ordinances allow. Just be sure that all downspouts are directed away from foundations to avoid basement flooding.
  
  
• Rain Barrels - Rain barrels capture and hold water until it can be used or slowly released into planted areas. For rain barrels to be effective at controlling stormwater, it is important to have a plan for using the water before installing one.
  
  
• Planting A Stream Buffer - Planting water loving trees, shrubs and/or other native plants is a great way to reduce stormwater runoff. If you have a stream on your property, planting along the stream will help prevent the stream from eroding away your property. The more plants the better! At the very least don't mow your lawn directly up to the edge of the streambank.
  
  
• Meadows Plantings or Turf Alternatives - If trees aren't an option on your property, adding other types of plants is a good substitute. Any areas where lawn can be replaced with native ornamental grasses, flowers, and/or shrubs will have a positive impact on controlling stormwater on your property. Whether large or small, these purposefully planted areas will increase the ability of the land to absorb water. Meadows/turf alternative areas can be a great way to reduce the amount of time you spend mowing the grass and can be placed in the areas that are the most difficult to mow.
  
  
• Rain Gardens - One of the best options for managing stormwater on your property is to install a rain garden. A rain garden is a depressed area in the landscape that collects rainwater from a roof, driveway or street and allows it to soak into the ground. Planted with grasses and flowering perennials, rain gardens can be a cost effective and beautiful way to reduce runoff from your property. Rain gardens can also help filter out pollutants in runoff and provide food and shelter for butterflies, songbirds, and other wildlife.
  
  
• Pervious Pavers - Pervious pavers can look very similar to a traditional brick or stone patio, sidewalk, or driveway. The difference is that they are installed with a thick stone base that provides space for water to be stored until it soaks into the ground. They are great for converting hard surfaces that usually make a lot of stormwater runoff, into a surface that absorbs, manages, and reduces that runoff. If you're interested in this, you should probably contact a professional landscaper.
  
  

These are just a few of the many options available for controlling and cleaning stormwater. Many projects can be tackled on your own, but if you have complicated stormwater issues on your property, consider getting help from an engineer, Soil and Water District professional, OSU Extension professional, and/or landscape professional. Also, be sure to check local ordinances to ensure that different management practices are allowed in your area.
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For more information regarding green infrastructure for the home, Warren Co SWCD programs, and/or technical assistance with water or soil questions, visit http://warrenswcd.com or call our offices at 513-695-1337. 

Resources: 

• Penn State Extension - https://extension.psu.edu/how-can-i-control-stormwater-on-my-property
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• United States Environmental Protection Agency - https://www.epa.gov/soakuptherain/soak-rain-rain-gardens

These days it seems like we hear of a new invasive species daily.  Whether it is a plant or animal, invasive species can wreak havoc on our local environment and economy. Lesser celandine (Ficaria verna) is an invasive plant that doesn’t look harmful, but in fact outcompetes our native spring wildflowers and creates a monoculture affecting insects, animals, and thus the ecosystem. It is found commonly throughout Southwest Ohio including Warren County.
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Lesser celandine, a Spring ephemeral, was first noted in Pennsylvania in the late 1860’s. It was introduced as an ornamental and eventually started popping up in native areas. A member of the buttercup family, lesser celandine is a perennial flowering herbaceous plant. The leaves are a shiny, dark green kidney shape with wavy edges. The attractive flowers are bright yellow with 7 to 12 petals. 

Replanting the area with native alternatives is a great way to help control soil disturbance while replenishing an important nectar source for insects. Lesser celandine is often confused with a desirable native wetland plant called marsh marigold (Caltha palustris). While they have similar leaf shapes and color, marsh marigold flowers only have five to nine petals and it does not produce tubers or bulblets.

Control and management of lesser celandine is very difficult and should be targeted over several years. For small infestations, lesser celandine may be pulled up by hand or dug up using a hand trowel or shovel. It is very important to remove all bulblets and tubers. If mechanical removal is to continue after dieback of the plants, individual plants or clumps will need to be marked with some sort of stakes or flagging because it will be impossible to relocate the plants otherwise. Mechanical control is very difficult for large infestations in high-quality natural areas. If choosing to control chemically (glyphosate, 2,4-D, MCPP, MCPA, dicamba, or triclopyr), you must follow label requirements. Higher control (90%-95%) has been found if spraying is done twice during the early and mid-flowering (up to 50% flower) stages over two years.

Check out native plant retailers for possible alternatives. Some suggested alternatives include wild ginger (Asarum canadense), bloodroot (Sanguinaria canadensis), twinleaf (Jeffersonia diphylla), cutleaf toothwort (Cardamine concatenate), dutchman’s breeches (Dicentra cucullaria), virginia bluebells (Mertensia virginica) and golden ragwort (Packera aurea). While the lifecycle of lesser celandine may be short, its early emergence and ability to grow and spread in a variety of habitats make it an aggressive invasive species to look out for.

Keep yourself familiar with these threats to help prevent further spread by visiting the Ohio Invasive Plants Council. For more information regarding growing native plants, Warren County Soil and Water Conservation District programs, and/or technical assistance on water or soil questions, call our offices at 513-695-1337. 

Additional Resources:
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Buckeye Yard and Garden Line, Lesser Celandine: Greater Problem by Joe Boggs

PennState Extension:
Don’t Be Deceived by This Beguiling Springtime Plant 

Brandywine Conservancy 

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Generally grown as an annual vegetable, sweet potatoes are actually an herbaceous perennial. The leaves are edible and may have been used historically for medicinal purposes, including as an antibiotic and a laxative. If you don’t plan to eat the leaves, make sure to add them to your compost pile as they are rich in potassium.

A late frost can ruin your sweet potato crop, so it is important to wait about 3 to 4 weeks after the last frost before planting. Soil temperatures between 60 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit are ideal. Sweet potato root sprouts, also known as “slips,” can be purchased from a local nursery or ordered by mail. It is best to sprout the slips indoors for about 6 weeks in a warm, moist medium before planting them.

Bury the sprouted slips in 6-inch holes about 1 foot apart in a part of your garden that receives a full 8 hours of direct sunlight. Avoid planting sweet potatoes near tall plants so that the sunlight is not blocked. Sweet potatoes grow best in rich, well-drained, loamy soil and are fairly drought tolerant. For the best results, be sure to provide about 1 inch of water per week and then stop watering about 2 to 4 weeks before harvest. Adding compost before planting will provide adequate nutrition and increase the soil’s moisture-holding capacity.

For annual cultivation, most varieties take between 90 and 150 days of warm weather for the tubers to mature. The leaves tend to turn yellow when the potatoes are ready to harvest, but the crop can be left longer to improve the yield and nutritional content. If your soil is heavy clay, the sweet potatoes can break apart large clods and any forgotten or rotting tubers will provide a natural compost fertilizer.

Wait for a dry, sunny day to harvest your sweet potatoes and then gently dig into the soil away from the base of the plant to avoid damaging the skins. Curing your potatoes is essential for long term storage and must be done immediately after harvest. To cure them, place them in an environment with temperatures of 80 to 85°F and 85 to 90 percent relative humidity for 7 to 14 days. To keep humidity high, wrap individual sweet potatoes in perforated plastic bags or newspaper. Cover the sweet potatoes with a plastic sheet or cloth. Curing helps to heal wounds that occur during harvest, prevents shriveling, and reduces the risk of rot during storage. Curing also makes the sweet potato more palatable by converting starches to sugars and improving aroma and texture.

For more information regarding growing sweet potatoes, Warren County Soil and Water Conservation District programs, and/or technical assistance with water or soil questions, visit www.warrenswcd.com or call 513-695-1337. 

Additional Resources:
http://extension.msstate.edu/publications/growing-sweet-potatoes-home
https://extension.illinois.edu/blogs/good-growing/2020-04-22-how-grow-sweet-potatoes
https://www.thespruce.com/how-to-grow-sweet-potatoes-in-the-home-garden-1403479
https://www.goodhousekeeping.com/home/gardening/a20706654/how-to-grow-sweet-potatoes/#:~:text=Sweet%20potatoes%20mature%20in%2090,but%20firmly%2C%20and%20water%20well.
https://www.botanical-online.com/en/botany/sweet-potato
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ueb-Fcuzc4U

Historically, wetlands have been thought of as places to avoid or as only sources of peat and fossil fuels. Because of this view, many of our wetlands have been destroyed (filled in or converted for other uses). Each state and county have wetland systems, but according to the U.S. EPA, the United States has lost more than 50 percent of the wetlands since before the European settlement of North America. More than 90% has been lost in Ohio specifically (Ohio Wetlands Association).   
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According to NRCS, “wetlands occur in many forms, including forested swamps, deep and shallow marshes, bogs, and prairie potholes. Some wetlands such as deep-water swamps are always wet, while others, such as bottomland swamps, dry out in certain seasons. These different types of wetlands have important functions; they protect shorelines, shelter rare and endangered species of plants and animals, and are used for recreation and education.”

Wetlands are often referred to as nature’s kidneys because of their ability to filter nutrients and other pollutants like pesticides and sediment from the water. Wetlands’ highly efficient cleaning power makes them a low-cost alternative for treating areas of concern. Wetlands filter water out in the following ways (Ohio Department of Natural Resources, H2Ohio):
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1. Slow the Flow – Wetlands slow the flow of water to allow nutrient-laden sediment to settle and help prevent further movement of contaminants.
2. Process and Remove – Wetlands process and remove nutrients and other contaminants, helping to prevent their flow further down the waterway.
3. Absorb and Hold – Soil can absorb and hold phosphorus and other nutrients, trapping them on the landscape and preventing them from moving further downstream.

“Wetlands also can help slow the overland flow of water and thus reduce flooding and soil erosion downstream. Coastal wetlands help absorb some of the impact of storm tides and waves before they reach upland areas. Wetlands are reservoirs for rainwater and runoff. They recharge ground water supplies and extend streamflow during periods of drought or low rainfall. Both coastal and inland wetlands provide breeding, nesting, and feeding habitats for millions of waterfowl, birds, and other wildlife.” (NRCS).  Amphibians rely on wetlands due to the fully aquatic stages of their lifecycle, and wet habitat requirements as adults.

Programs exist through Federal, State, and Local wetland programs that protect and restore wetlands, such as USDA’s Wetlands Reserve Program, the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service’s Partners for Wildlife Program, and State programs such as H2Ohio. For more information regarding wetland funding, Warren Co SWCD programs, and/or technical assistance on water or soil questions, contact us at wcswcd@gmail.com or (513) 695-1337. 

​Additional Resources: 

• Natural Resources Conservation Service – https://www.nrcs.usda.gov/wps/portal/nrcs/main/national/water/wetlands/
• Ohio Wetlands Association - http://www.ohwetlands.org/
• Ohio Department of Natural Resources H2Ohio Wetland Program - https://ohiodnr.gov/buy-and-apply/apply-for-grants/grants/h20-grant
• Ohio Department of Natural Resources - H2Ohio Program -  https://h2.ohio.gov/natural-resources/​

As the common name suggests, Asian jumping worms (Amynthas spp.) seem to jump or thrash when handled. Little kids and worm lovers might be excited by a find like this in their lawn, garden or woodlot but finding this worm is not beneficial for the native environment.

Why Jumping Worms Are A Problem
Most worms that you find in the Midwest are European and Asian non-natives. Both of these non-native types alter the native environment, although Asian jumping worms do it at a more alarming rate.  Jumping worms grow twice as fast, reproduce more quickly, and can work through organic debris much quicker than other worms. These invasive worms can severely damage the roots of plants in nurseries, gardens, forests, and turf. In areas of heavy infestation, native plants, microorganisms and animals such as salamanders may decline.

Asian jumping worms are an annual species; the adults die after the first freeze. But the cocoons, which are about the size of a mustard seed and resemble small pieces of dirt, will survive the winter and hatch when temperatures reach 50°F for a consistent period. These self-fertilizing worms do not need mates and can produce cocoons on their own. Because populations can grow faster than the common European species, they may out-compete existing worm populations. Cocoons can be spread easily in potted plants, on landscaping equipment, mulch, tire treads, and even hiking boots.
One telltale sign of an infestation is a very uniform, granular soil created from worm castings that are commonly said to look like coffee grounds. When you scratch the top layer of soil you will see the worms thrashing about with an erratic, snakelike movement. These worms, which can reach 6 inches in length, are much more active than European nightcrawlers. The Asian jumping worm can be found on the soil surface and in the leaf litter, making them easy to find. They can live anywhere from urban parks and suburban backyards to rural forests. You are also very likely to find them in compost piles and along roads.

Earthworm species have a body part called the clitellum where egg cocoons are produced. The Asian jumping worm has a prominent clitellum that completely encircles the body, is milky white to light gray, and is flush with the body; the body looks metallic. On European nightcrawlers, the clitellum is raised or saddle-shaped and reddish-brown in color and does not wrap entirely around the body.

Management
There is no magic control for these worms once they are found in soil. Asian jumping worms can now be found in the East, Mid-Atlantic, Midwest, and some Northwestern states. Prevention is the best way to keep them from being introduced to new areas. According to Wisconsin Department of Natural Resources, the following steps will reduce the spread of jumping worms:

• Educate yourself and others to recognize jumping worms
• Watch for jumping worms and signs of their presence
• Arrive clean, leave clean. Clean soil and debris from vehicles, equipment and personal gear before moving to and from a work or recreational area – they might contain jumping worms or their cocoons
• Use, sell, plant, purchase or trade only landscape and gardening materials and plants that appear to be free of jumping worms
• Sell, purchase or trade only compost and mulch that was heated to appropriate temperatures and duration following protocols that reduce pathogens.

According to Ohio State University Extension, much is unknown about the long-term effects of these worms, with research currently underway regarding control strategies in different environments.  Inorder to understand and track the presence of these worms OSU has developed a reporting site where Ohio gardeners can document locations of suspected populations. Gardeners should visit [ https://go.osu.edu/asianjumpingworms ] to report suspected locations and upload photographs.
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Until effective research-based control strategies are developed to keep populations of this worm in check, gardeners should closely examine soil, compost, wood chips, and other soil amendments they move on or off their property. Learn how to identify these worms and educate your gardening friends and neighbors so they too can identify these worms.  If you do find these worms on your property, never share plants or soil with other gardeners.

For more questions regarding Warren County Soil and Water Conservation District programs and/or technical assistance on water or soil questions, visit http://warrenswcd.com or call, 513-695-1337. ​